Shaken

In Sept 2010 and then again in February 2011, Christchurch, New Zealand was rocked by significant earthquakes. The City Center was destroyed and several landmarks are gone. Today was my first chance to visit and it felt odd to bike through the beautiful and lush Hagley Park hearing jackhammers and seeing cranes over the treetops.

Something else entirely has been to talk with locals who lived through the quakes and still live with the aftershocks – there have been a few in the days since I arrived. Some are scared, some defiant, most people fall somewhere between.

The city seems to be trying hard to focus on rebuilding and celebrating what’s working well. That includes their pivotal role as the staging area for so much Antarctic exploration, which is the focus of their first annual IceFest this month and last night the official kick off of this year’s season at a party downtown.

Another way many have incorporated their new situation of rebuilding is a strip mall made from re-purposed steel shipping containers. Someone stacked a few of them together, repainted them bright colors, and moved in several businesses that were destroyed in the quakes. I bought a cup of coffee, watched street performers, browsed the stores.

Interesting how people react to crisis. Some see opportunity, some laugh it off, some try to pretend it’s not that bad.

EXTREME Cold weather clothing…

Stopped by today to get my ECW gear (extreme cold weather) and was treated like an old-timer. Some staff there remember me from the last trip (or else looked me up and were just being good hosts). I now have a complete set of clothes like in the picture plus additional mittens and a few sets of long underwear and fleece that aren’t visible. I was told it’s “quite cold there now” so I may indeed need to wear most everything. (Is negative 76 a number?)

I’m scheduled to leave sometime on Monday, for what I know is a looooong day. Before then, this weekend is the kickoff of the season in Christchurch. More to come on that later.

Arrived in Christchurch, NZ

I’m not sure what day it is or which way is up, but after more than 30 hours of flying and waiting to fly, I’ve a room at the Commodore Hotel in Christchurch, showered, and enjoying early spring in this beautiful country. Hopefully tomorrow, I’ll have more chance to explore again. There have been at least two major earthquakes since I was last here in 2010.

Someone who’s made this trip several times advised me a few hours ago to try to stay awake until it’s evening here so as to help my body acclimate. I’d heard it before and it makes theoretical sense… but after struggling to sleep in an airplane seat for hours on end, I’m pooped now.

I have managed stay awake and busy with a few things since I arrived. As I was about to surrender to sleep, I got a phone call from Fr Dan, a local priest who manages the Roman Catholic priest coverage for Antarctica, as well as Fr John a veteran of the ice and a colleague the last time I came. Also met a former commander on the military side of the mission in Antarctica who has now shifted to a broader role. All three were a big part of my last trip here, so it was very nice to have them call and get to catch up with them a bit. I excused myself when I could barely keep my eyes open, and so now I’m calling it a day.

Back to the Ice

I'm on my way back, currently waiting at the Albany airport to begin a series of flights so long I've avoided doing the math.

Though I'm guessing Antarctica is still cold and dry and far away, I expect this trip will be different. I know that I've changed and I know a few things at McMurdo have changed since I was last there.

As before, my primary job there is to provide spiritual care to the scientists, support staff and military members connected with the US Antarctic Program. It's an amazing and eclectic group of people, and I'm looking forward to hearing how their life journeys have brought them to the bottom of our planet. I'm there for two months, back by Thanksgiving if the weather cooperates, and this trip I get to be the opening rotation. There are a few ceremonial events within the week to officially kick off this year's research season, and then I should be on the ice around the first of October.

As excited as I am, this is a bittersweet day for me as well. We went to breakfast as a family and then I dropped the girls off late for school before last-minute packing and then a trip to the airport. My daughters are brilliant, beautiful inside and out, and so resilient they amaze me. Being apart hurts us all - more than a few tears in the school today for drop off - and I am so grateful for the support they give their daddy. Each of their classrooms created a banner that I'll spread out and photograph way down under, and we've made some plans to bring a bit of this adventure into their classrooms as well. But I won't be able to tuck them in at night and will miss them dearly. This will be hard to be away.